The View from Il Loggino
Saturday, May 29, 2004
Reading back, I think I've lost the rhythm- trying to cram the story of the whole month into three or four posts. But there'll be more time for reflection after I finish telling about the last week at Castiglione d'Orcia. It was the coldest May in fifty years! Imagine how much I'll love it when the weather is normal!
My family and I joined the people from Slow Travel for a Sunday afternoon lunch in a tiny village high above the other end of the Val d'Orcia. An unexpectedly elegant lunch. Ristorante La Rosa del Trinoro made our get together truly memorable. I was particularly invested in this event because I'd made a friend on line at SlowTrav who was a classmate at Bryn Mawr of one of my best friends from Peace Corps days and I was eager to meet her. She and her husband were great company as were the two other women from ST who came. It was a long afternoon of exquisite food and engrossing conversation. We all come from the U.S. to meet here, our love of Italy the common thread.
On the way home, I took my brother-in-law to the hilltown of Radicofani which he was not satisfied to see from a distance and I almost ended up killing him for disappearing up to the fortress with my nephew for well over an hour, leaving the rest of us to cool our heels in the parking lot. I was furious and he was barely repentant. Driving like a maniac while I yelled at him, I nearly committed dogicide dodging three huge, white, furry Maremma shepherds. We finally made up at the bar in Bagno Vignoni. I stopped at this favorite watering hole of his as a peace offering- and made him pick up the tab. We didn't go to sleep angry and we all slept in on Monday before going off to a festive farewell-to-the-Aussies dinner at Gary and Zak's. How incredibly kind and generous these two Tuscan neighbors have been to me and mine!
And on Tuesday, the crew left for Rome and points east- Vietnam and Australia. May 11, 2004, was the first night I would spend alone in my new home. It was great!
Wednesday found me shopping in San Quirico and having lunch in Monticchiello (again!) with Paolo and with Ester who was off to Sicily, her home, the next day. Later in the day, Amy came for a short visit before going home to the commune. I think she finally realizes it's not just a half hour away- more like an hour and a half. But I will visit there often when I move over. They feel like my Italian family- one of my Italian families anyway.
On Thursday, Augusta, my dear friend and former Italian professor from NYC, came all the way down from Mantova to visit. I have to make it my business to visit her parents, aunts and uncles again soon. It's been too long. I picked her up at the Chiusi train station and brought her home for a tour of the new home, a good meal with good wine and a comfortable visit before taking her back to the station. The drive between my house and Chiusi is probably one of the most beautiful drives in all of Italy- and that's saying a lot!
So contrary to all expectations, I finally met with the geometra on the last day of my stay rather than the first. I had packed and cleaned up the house and readied it for closing. I gave all my perishables to my new found friends in the village who later showed up with home made wine for me to bring to NY. Then I took all my drawings and notes to the geometra's office down the street. He and his assistant heard me out- my hopes, plans, ideas for the house (all in my rather creative Italian spiced up with mime)- and then we did a total walk through of the house and I feel reassured I will be receiving a fax of the preventivo before the summer is out. I know now that I can take it slow- the house is perfectly livable in the warmest months and not impossible in the colder ones.
I found out that my real estate agent's illness was serious enough to keep him from coming to Tuscany from Bolzano for the time being and I asked that my best wishes be passed along. And I was sad to hear that the elegant woman who had first welcomed me to town, who I mentioned in the very first post of this blog, is now at the casa di riposo, the nursing home. I learned her name a bit late.
And then Paolo came with wild gladioli from his pasture and Gary and Zak came for my houseplants and the keys. We all stood around in the late afternoon spring sunlight gossiping about the movie people using the Rocca as a location and then took deep breaths, gave great hugs, and said goodbye until autumn when I go back. An evening spent driving to Rome for a flight (to a place for which I seem to have less and less affinity) seemed the most leaden of activities. Now had I been driving back from Rome... well, that would have been sweet.
My family and I joined the people from Slow Travel for a Sunday afternoon lunch in a tiny village high above the other end of the Val d'Orcia. An unexpectedly elegant lunch. Ristorante La Rosa del Trinoro made our get together truly memorable. I was particularly invested in this event because I'd made a friend on line at SlowTrav who was a classmate at Bryn Mawr of one of my best friends from Peace Corps days and I was eager to meet her. She and her husband were great company as were the two other women from ST who came. It was a long afternoon of exquisite food and engrossing conversation. We all come from the U.S. to meet here, our love of Italy the common thread.
On the way home, I took my brother-in-law to the hilltown of Radicofani which he was not satisfied to see from a distance and I almost ended up killing him for disappearing up to the fortress with my nephew for well over an hour, leaving the rest of us to cool our heels in the parking lot. I was furious and he was barely repentant. Driving like a maniac while I yelled at him, I nearly committed dogicide dodging three huge, white, furry Maremma shepherds. We finally made up at the bar in Bagno Vignoni. I stopped at this favorite watering hole of his as a peace offering- and made him pick up the tab. We didn't go to sleep angry and we all slept in on Monday before going off to a festive farewell-to-the-Aussies dinner at Gary and Zak's. How incredibly kind and generous these two Tuscan neighbors have been to me and mine!
And on Tuesday, the crew left for Rome and points east- Vietnam and Australia. May 11, 2004, was the first night I would spend alone in my new home. It was great!
Wednesday found me shopping in San Quirico and having lunch in Monticchiello (again!) with Paolo and with Ester who was off to Sicily, her home, the next day. Later in the day, Amy came for a short visit before going home to the commune. I think she finally realizes it's not just a half hour away- more like an hour and a half. But I will visit there often when I move over. They feel like my Italian family- one of my Italian families anyway.
On Thursday, Augusta, my dear friend and former Italian professor from NYC, came all the way down from Mantova to visit. I have to make it my business to visit her parents, aunts and uncles again soon. It's been too long. I picked her up at the Chiusi train station and brought her home for a tour of the new home, a good meal with good wine and a comfortable visit before taking her back to the station. The drive between my house and Chiusi is probably one of the most beautiful drives in all of Italy- and that's saying a lot!
So contrary to all expectations, I finally met with the geometra on the last day of my stay rather than the first. I had packed and cleaned up the house and readied it for closing. I gave all my perishables to my new found friends in the village who later showed up with home made wine for me to bring to NY. Then I took all my drawings and notes to the geometra's office down the street. He and his assistant heard me out- my hopes, plans, ideas for the house (all in my rather creative Italian spiced up with mime)- and then we did a total walk through of the house and I feel reassured I will be receiving a fax of the preventivo before the summer is out. I know now that I can take it slow- the house is perfectly livable in the warmest months and not impossible in the colder ones.
I found out that my real estate agent's illness was serious enough to keep him from coming to Tuscany from Bolzano for the time being and I asked that my best wishes be passed along. And I was sad to hear that the elegant woman who had first welcomed me to town, who I mentioned in the very first post of this blog, is now at the casa di riposo, the nursing home. I learned her name a bit late.
And then Paolo came with wild gladioli from his pasture and Gary and Zak came for my houseplants and the keys. We all stood around in the late afternoon spring sunlight gossiping about the movie people using the Rocca as a location and then took deep breaths, gave great hugs, and said goodbye until autumn when I go back. An evening spent driving to Rome for a flight (to a place for which I seem to have less and less affinity) seemed the most leaden of activities. Now had I been driving back from Rome... well, that would have been sweet.
Friday, May 28, 2004
Projected benefit payments for my early retirement have come in and it looks as though I'll be able to live fairly comfortably on what I'll be getting- even some years before I can apply for my social security benefits.
My mood at work is pretty good- now that I know I'm outta there!!! And only nine months from now! Oh, happy day!
Wonderful neighbors stopped by at the garden gate to introduce themselves and welcome me to the village. They moved up from Roma three years ago and are delighted to see the lights on in Il Loggino after so long. So we'll be ex-city people together.
The morning after my sister and her crew arrived, Jo and I drove Antonello to the train station in Buonconvento. He was off to Sardinia before heading over to Australia. I hope he's back in the autumn to strip the paint off the doors and window frames in the house. Huge job!
Jo is my sister's neighbor in Australia and, along with her husband, a great friend of ours. I love how she makes me notice things I've already started taking for granted in Italy- like the shadows of the persiani or the cats awaiting their next meal at a particular storefront location.
Ester and Paolo had us all over for a buffet at the tower and we were treated to a private concert of Ester's favorite arias. Her voice would not be out of place at the Met!
At three the next morning when we were all abed, there was hauntingly beautiful music being played and sung beneath our windows- Castiglione d'Orcia's traditional way of welcoming in the month of May. Magical.
We all went to Bagno Vignoni (where we ran into my new friend at her store) and then to a lovely meal at Boccon di Vino in Montalcino.
The whole crew gave me the next day to myself while they went exploring in Pienza and then we met Gary and Zak at I Poggioli in Buonconvento for a seafood tasting menu that was another spectacular (and inexpensive) production by Guido, Gaby and Maria Angela.
Jo stayed with me the following day and the family went off to Firenze and points north (my nephew gets the whirlwind cultural indoctrination tour.) Jo and I scouted the restaurant at Castiglioncello for Sunday's SlowTrav GTG and then went to Sant'Antimo and then for lunch in Montalcino. Gary, Zak and Peter came over for the afternoon and we all drank a lot.
The next night Jo and I went to Chiusure for dinner and a slumber party followed by a day trip to Lucca for lunch at La Cecca, a Lucchese garden spot with wonderful food just south of town, and then a shopping and bar spree followed by another overnight with Gary and Zak. Jo's husband Brian is worried.
On Friday, my cousin and her husband came to Il Loggino and my sister, brother-in-law and nephew arrived back from Venice after a race down the autostrada. Family reunion.
On Saturday, the men were enthralled by the Mille Miglia passing through Buonconvento, and then we did a quick tour of Siena before going to the Comune di Bagnaia, the eco-farm where my great group of friends live near Sovicille. We checked on the pigs and the cattle and the cheese-making, before joining everyone for dinner. Lots of laughter and good conversation. A few English speakers there, including some WOOFers, for the family to relate to. I was so happy to see all my old friends!
My mood at work is pretty good- now that I know I'm outta there!!! And only nine months from now! Oh, happy day!
Wonderful neighbors stopped by at the garden gate to introduce themselves and welcome me to the village. They moved up from Roma three years ago and are delighted to see the lights on in Il Loggino after so long. So we'll be ex-city people together.
The morning after my sister and her crew arrived, Jo and I drove Antonello to the train station in Buonconvento. He was off to Sardinia before heading over to Australia. I hope he's back in the autumn to strip the paint off the doors and window frames in the house. Huge job!
Jo is my sister's neighbor in Australia and, along with her husband, a great friend of ours. I love how she makes me notice things I've already started taking for granted in Italy- like the shadows of the persiani or the cats awaiting their next meal at a particular storefront location.
Ester and Paolo had us all over for a buffet at the tower and we were treated to a private concert of Ester's favorite arias. Her voice would not be out of place at the Met!
At three the next morning when we were all abed, there was hauntingly beautiful music being played and sung beneath our windows- Castiglione d'Orcia's traditional way of welcoming in the month of May. Magical.
We all went to Bagno Vignoni (where we ran into my new friend at her store) and then to a lovely meal at Boccon di Vino in Montalcino.
The whole crew gave me the next day to myself while they went exploring in Pienza and then we met Gary and Zak at I Poggioli in Buonconvento for a seafood tasting menu that was another spectacular (and inexpensive) production by Guido, Gaby and Maria Angela.
Jo stayed with me the following day and the family went off to Firenze and points north (my nephew gets the whirlwind cultural indoctrination tour.) Jo and I scouted the restaurant at Castiglioncello for Sunday's SlowTrav GTG and then went to Sant'Antimo and then for lunch in Montalcino. Gary, Zak and Peter came over for the afternoon and we all drank a lot.
The next night Jo and I went to Chiusure for dinner and a slumber party followed by a day trip to Lucca for lunch at La Cecca, a Lucchese garden spot with wonderful food just south of town, and then a shopping and bar spree followed by another overnight with Gary and Zak. Jo's husband Brian is worried.
On Friday, my cousin and her husband came to Il Loggino and my sister, brother-in-law and nephew arrived back from Venice after a race down the autostrada. Family reunion.
On Saturday, the men were enthralled by the Mille Miglia passing through Buonconvento, and then we did a quick tour of Siena before going to the Comune di Bagnaia, the eco-farm where my great group of friends live near Sovicille. We checked on the pigs and the cattle and the cheese-making, before joining everyone for dinner. Lots of laughter and good conversation. A few English speakers there, including some WOOFers, for the family to relate to. I was so happy to see all my old friends!
Wednesday, May 26, 2004
Got back from visiting my friend Maggie in Atlanta where I also went to Jenny's wedding. I am now officially a slowtrav blogger. Nice long weekend.
Now back to the story of my month in Italy- my first time actually living in my new home.
The beginning of my second week found me settled in Il Loggino and watching Antonello make each room more livable by scraping and painting. He found a few wonderful things in the attic: old photos, hand written music from the 1800's and some fun antique things like a plant stand (formerly a wash stand), a plaster bust of a young girl, a big metal barrel full of shoes from a century ago, and even some doll's clothes.
On Monday, April 26, I went off to the ENEL office in Montepulciano and contracted with them to come upgrade my electricity to 6 kw. That should handle anything.
I shopped at the COOP in San Quirico and cooked twice a day to keep Antonello fueled. By Wednesday we were ready for an evening out with Gary and Zak and met them at the best pizza restaurant in the area, the one in Torrenieri. We saw an istrice (oversized porcupine) crossing the road in our headlights on the way home.
My family arrived from Australia, via NYC, the next day and we toasted the miracle of this new house with some fine champagne.
Now back to the story of my month in Italy- my first time actually living in my new home.
The beginning of my second week found me settled in Il Loggino and watching Antonello make each room more livable by scraping and painting. He found a few wonderful things in the attic: old photos, hand written music from the 1800's and some fun antique things like a plant stand (formerly a wash stand), a plaster bust of a young girl, a big metal barrel full of shoes from a century ago, and even some doll's clothes.
On Monday, April 26, I went off to the ENEL office in Montepulciano and contracted with them to come upgrade my electricity to 6 kw. That should handle anything.
I shopped at the COOP in San Quirico and cooked twice a day to keep Antonello fueled. By Wednesday we were ready for an evening out with Gary and Zak and met them at the best pizza restaurant in the area, the one in Torrenieri. We saw an istrice (oversized porcupine) crossing the road in our headlights on the way home.
My family arrived from Australia, via NYC, the next day and we toasted the miracle of this new house with some fine champagne.
Tuesday, May 25, 2004
Thursday, May 20, 2004
Now I'm obsessing about gardening. I am managing to block out the shrub, whose mad crusade has flowered with atrocities abroad and increased vulnerability at home, with orders for botanical encyclopedias from amazon.com.
Paolo came over with his scythe and Gary brought his weed-wacker and after a major pruning of the undergrowth we sat down to a lunch that Ester whipped up in my newly equipped kitchen. Gary found a wood burning stufa behind the fireplace screen and fired it up. Cozy warm. Plenty of wood in the cantina.
Paolo came over with his scythe and Gary brought his weed-wacker and after a major pruning of the undergrowth we sat down to a lunch that Ester whipped up in my newly equipped kitchen. Gary found a wood burning stufa behind the fireplace screen and fired it up. Cozy warm. Plenty of wood in the cantina.
Tuesday, May 18, 2004
I can't believe I have to go to work tomorrow. I have too many other things to do! All for me (instead of for money).
When I got to Italy last month (and I will be repeating myself alot here in my effort to relive the experiences), I went to Torrita di Siena all by myself on Saturday, the second day (it was pouring!), and bought mattresses at Noi delle Notte, arranging for delivery on Monday. I'd spent the morning revisiting my house in Castiglione d'Orcia and finding it even more to my liking than before. Then I barged in on Paolo and Ester in Monticchiello and got invited to stay for lunch. Got to see Daria at La Porta, her restaurant, when we went there for coffee afterwards. We all made plans to go to her for dinner on Monday evening. Jet lag made Sunday a wash- just a cozy indoor day as houseguest at the place which inspires my ideas for Il Loggino.
On Monday I got a block of cheques from Claudio at my bank branch after receiving the mattress delivery and getting Mario the smith to cut the lock off the ENEL box (broke the key). We got to see Ester's marvelous dolls, works of art!, and play with Paolo's dogs before dinner at Daria's.
Tuesday was a spectacularly sunny day and Gary took me to IKEA in Firenze for a housewares shopping spree! We rewarded ourselves and Zak (for his patience) with dinner at I Poggioli in Buonconvento where I feel like I'm at Cheers where "everyone knows your name"- old home week! And Guido's cooking remains the best bang for the buck in southern Tuscany.
After doing laundry on Wednesday, I had lunch with Zak at the new restaurant in Chiusure, Il Pozzo, a very nice addition to the town by a young fiorentino chef.
And then, Gary and Zak threw me out!!! All the baby sparrows learning to fly all over the Val d'Orcia this April had company! Of course, they did provide me with a young man from Sardinia to do the hard and dirty stuff and help me negotiate the purchase of a stufa, get the bombole and hook them up so we could cook and avoid freezing.
So I was off!!! Thursday was clean out the attic, create a kitchen, and go to Sinalunga to get home insurance from Zak's agent at SAI there. Flying!
When I got to Italy last month (and I will be repeating myself alot here in my effort to relive the experiences), I went to Torrita di Siena all by myself on Saturday, the second day (it was pouring!), and bought mattresses at Noi delle Notte, arranging for delivery on Monday. I'd spent the morning revisiting my house in Castiglione d'Orcia and finding it even more to my liking than before. Then I barged in on Paolo and Ester in Monticchiello and got invited to stay for lunch. Got to see Daria at La Porta, her restaurant, when we went there for coffee afterwards. We all made plans to go to her for dinner on Monday evening. Jet lag made Sunday a wash- just a cozy indoor day as houseguest at the place which inspires my ideas for Il Loggino.
On Monday I got a block of cheques from Claudio at my bank branch after receiving the mattress delivery and getting Mario the smith to cut the lock off the ENEL box (broke the key). We got to see Ester's marvelous dolls, works of art!, and play with Paolo's dogs before dinner at Daria's.
Tuesday was a spectacularly sunny day and Gary took me to IKEA in Firenze for a housewares shopping spree! We rewarded ourselves and Zak (for his patience) with dinner at I Poggioli in Buonconvento where I feel like I'm at Cheers where "everyone knows your name"- old home week! And Guido's cooking remains the best bang for the buck in southern Tuscany.
After doing laundry on Wednesday, I had lunch with Zak at the new restaurant in Chiusure, Il Pozzo, a very nice addition to the town by a young fiorentino chef.
And then, Gary and Zak threw me out!!! All the baby sparrows learning to fly all over the Val d'Orcia this April had company! Of course, they did provide me with a young man from Sardinia to do the hard and dirty stuff and help me negotiate the purchase of a stufa, get the bombole and hook them up so we could cook and avoid freezing.
So I was off!!! Thursday was clean out the attic, create a kitchen, and go to Sinalunga to get home insurance from Zak's agent at SAI there. Flying!
Sunday, May 16, 2004
After spending five nights with my friends, I moved into my new home on Wednesday evening, the 21st of April. I engaged the services of a new friend from Sardinia to do the heavy lifting for the first week. Dawn found me undaunted by the innumerable tasks and errands ahead. Standing at this window with coffee in hand- sheer joy.
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Musings on moving to the Val d'Orcia
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